Choosing a cage for your pet hedgehog is an important

Choosing a cage for your pet hedgehog is an important first step before you even bring it home. There are many types of cages that are acceptable. Let's look at a few.







Aquariums:

Pros: 30 gallon size or larger aquariums make good homes. They are easy to clean and offer good visibility

Cons: Providing good ventilation can be a problem. As well, Aquariums are heavy and can be difficult to move

Sterilite Storage Containers:

Pros: easy to clean and sterilize. They are light weight, yet sturdy; available in a variety of sizes suitable for single and multiple hedgehogs; came in clear and translucent colours; and, they are extremely inexpensive. (about $8 USF for the 96 quart-size at Wal-Mart)

Cons: To provide good ventilation they should have 1/2 - 5/8 inch holes drilled in the somewhat brittle plastic walls.


Rabbit Cages:

Pros: They are usually the correct size for hedgehogs

Cons: Most have wire flooring that a hedgehog's feet will slip through. The holes in the wire walls and ceilings are large enough for a hedgehog to climb, slip and fall. Bruises, broken limbs and even death can result.

Ferret Cages:

Pros: Wire enclosed ferret cages that have plastic trays make suitable hedgehog enclosures. Multi-level units with ramps provide lots of floor space for adequate exercise. They are easy to clean and provide good ventilation. ... they offer large floor plans, solid level ramps, excellent ventilation, and are easy to clean.

Cons: The wire walls may be wide enough for a young hedgehog to slip its head through. Make certain that the wire bars are spaced no more than 1/2 inch apart. The large size of these cages makes them difficult to move and transport easily.

HANDLING

It is never a good idea to pick up a domestic hedgehog with gloves. Although imposing in appearance, the spines are not sharp enough to cause any real injury and, unlike porcupines, the spines do not come out and they are not barbed. It is absolutely essential for your hedgehog to recognize your scent and to recognize it as being harmless. In fact, in order to show your hedgehog at a sanctioned show, you must be able to properly handle him without gloves, since these are not allowed at the show table.

The correct method for picking up a hedgehog is to place your hands, palms up and his head facing away from you, on each side and gently scoop him up from underneath. If you are a bit unsure at first, scoop a little lower and take some of the shavings with him as this will help to protect your hands from his spines. After picking him up, you can drop the shavings as you move him from hand to hand. Then, carefully move him over onto one hand and hold him over the back with the other. Another way is to pick him up with a slotted spoon and place him on your hand. Once accustomed to you, he won’t bother to put his spines up and he will be very easy to pick up.

If he is rolled-up into a ball, he will, in most cases, soon unroll and put his spines down. If he is stubborn, though, getting him to unroll can can sometimes be little bit tricky. The simplest and most effective means to do this is to gently rock him back and forth in your hand. He will soon pop his little head out, but if he doesn't, hold him with his head facing away from you and a little bit higher than the rest of his body. Try to figure where his neck is and, in small circles about the size of a quarter, softly rub his neck. When he peaks out, allow him to lean forward and place his front feet on your other hand. Now, you can slowly move him from hand to hand. If, after trying these methods you are still having difficulties, ask a breeder or the store where you purchased your hedgehog if they could show you the proper technique for unrolling a stubborn pet.

Obesity in Hedgehogs

Obesity, often due to lack of exercise, use of high fat foods, and too many treats, is a common and serious problem among domesticated African Pygmy hedgehogs. A healthy hedgehog looks a little rounded and plump, but hedgehogs with fat waddles at the "arm pits" or who can not roll completely into a ball are at increased risk for health problems like fatty liver disease and heart attacks. A healthy adult can weigh as little as six ounces, or even as much as two pounds, so it is important to consider how the hedgehog looks, rather than relying on a number on the scale to determine whether a hedgehog is obese. Some hedgehogs appear more prone to obesity than others, and they need a little help to maintain a healthy weight.

The next question, of course, is how! According to research presented by Dr. Susan Graffam of the Bronx Nature Conservatory at the Go Hog Wild Hedgehog seminar in 1998, an average hedgehog needs about 30 to 70 calories a day. That really isn't a whole lot of food (about 1 to 4 Tbsp.)! Some hedgehogs will gorge if given the opportunity to eat a lot of a food they really like. There is a published study citing a hedgehog who was free fed mealworms and nearly doubled its weight in a very short period of time. A sad but classic example of this problem is a hedgehog who was known as Big Bob. Dawn Wrobel tells the story of how she went to pick up a rescue hedgehog whose owner said she would kill the hedgehog if someone didn't come get it right away. Dawn quickly rearranged her schedule and arrived to find the most obese hedgehog she had ever seen. When leaving with Big Bob, the previous owner said, "Don't forget to give him his treats." Dawn asked, "Treats, what treats?" The lady said, "Oh, I feed him a chocolate bar every day." Bob got no more chocolate after that day, and went on to lead a much healthier life. Some hedgehogs, like this one, manage to get their svelte figures back just through cutting back on their treats or switching to a lite brand of food.

Some hedgehogs do not seem to lose weight easily, even when food is cut back and a wheel and/or large amounts of space are provided for exercise. Our Tater tends to have this problem. Tater looks healthy at about 20 ounces, but last summer when we thought she was pregnant, she ballooned to 27 ounces. And she was not pregnant, just eating for a whole zoo, it turned out. I cut her food back to 1 Tbsp. Per day, but she still did not lose weight. I cut her back to 1 Tbsp. of lite food per day, and she lost just a mere half ounce. I finally began to count out the number of pieces of food she was getting each day, and scattered them around the cage to force her to move.

She finally started to lose weight! Once the weight started to come off, she began to move more, getting back to running on the wheel and exploring around her cage at night. After three months, she was down to a lovely 19 ounces and we were able to begin to up her food intake. We have heard of other hedgehog owners who encouraged obese hedgehogs to exercise by providing supervised swim sessions, though out of shape hedgehogs can tire easily to caution should be exercised with this approach. When in doubt, consult your veterinarian, and keep in mind that a healthy hedgie is a happy hedgie.

Giving Oral Medications

This document was originally written after I had to give one of my hedgehogs oral antibiotics for a bacterial infection of the skin for an extended period of time.

I have since used many of these methods depending on the hedgehog I am dealing with. When some hedgehogs don't feel well they will willingly allow you to medicate them, others become very defensive and stay curled up in a ball, making medicine time quite an event.

Depending on your hedgehogs attitude and how comfortable you are handling a sick hedgehog, you may find some of these methods easier than others. I highly recommend trying methods 1, 4 & 5 first. If those fail then you will need to move on to a more forceful approach.

Method #1
First offer the medication to the hedgehog from the syringe. Many oral medications are flavored, thus your hedgehog may readily lap the medication from the syringe.

Method #2
Wrap the hedgehog in a towel (not balled up) with its head sticking out of the towel. Then place the syringe in the corner of its mouth. Normally the hedgehog will open up to bite the syringe. You can then squirt the medication into the back part of its mouth and the hedgehog should swallow the medicine.

Method #3
Allow the hedgehog to curl up in a ball by rolling it on its back. Then when the hedgehog starts to uncurl place your thumb under its chin so that they can't ball back up. This may take a little pressure to prevent. Then place the syringe in the corner of the hedgehogs mouth . Once again the hedgehog will probably open its mouth to bite the syringe. You can then give the hedgehog its medication.

Method #4
Mix the medication with a treat. Find a food that the hedgehog really likes. Mix 1 part medication to about 2 or 3 parts of the treat. Don't mix the medication in normal food due to the fact the hedgehog may decide it doesn't want to eat its normal food anymore because of a bad tasting medication.

Method #5
Inject the medication into food items (mealworms, corn, etc). I have found injecting oral antibiotics with a small needle into a mealworm then feeding the hedgehog the mealworm to be really effective. Make sure to offer another un-medicated treat to get rid of the "nasty" taste.

When to Take Your Hedgehog to the Vet

Vet care can be expensive and many hedgehog owners I have talked to are reluctant to take their hedgie to the vet for fear of running up high bills when there really isn't a problem. The list below is by no means exhaustive, but includes some common situations where people often have to decide whether or not to take the hedgie to the vet. The rule of thumb I use is: when in doubt, go! Hedgehogs often don't show signs of illness until they are quite sick, so fast action can often make quite a difference. Here are some situations people frequently ask me about, and the decision process I go through:

1. My hedgie is acting funny. Behavioral changes are often an important clue. If an ordinarily friendly hedgie suddenly becomes a grouch, or a hedgie who is ordinarily quite huffy suddenly becomes passive, this is a sign to me that perhaps something major is going on. I schedule a vet appointment within 24 hours.

2. My hedgie collapsed and is limp: This, obviously, is never a good sign. Get the hedgie to the vet as soon as possible. Make sure to keep him or her comfortable and sufficiently warm, but not overheated.

3. My hedgie hasn't eaten for 24 hours: This isn't necessarily a problem. Sometimes hedgies go on a hunger strike for as much as a day to three, then resume their business normally. If it persists longer than that or if there is notable weight loss, then you will want to schedule a vet visit right away. Also, if the hedgie has not consumer water for 24 hours, you should schedule a vet visit, as water is quite critical.

4. My hedgie has ingested household cleaner or other potentially toxic items: Get to the vet right away. Some substances that are potentially toxic can be counteracted if treated right away, but are fatal if you wait. Better safe than sorry.

5. My hedgie is having seizures: Get to the vet right away. You may want to have the vet check the blood glucose level to rule in our out diabetes.

6. My hedgie is unresponsive and cool to the touch: The first thing I do is try to warm up the hedgie, either by placing it under my shirt or placing it on a heating pad set on low, with a blanket between it and the hedgie. The hedgie may be trying to hibernate. If this doesn't help within an hour, get to the vet right away.

7. My hedgie is walking stiffly: This could be due to a wide variety of things- arthritis, injury, Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome, etc... It's good to get a vet's opinion right away so you know how to treat it.

8. My hedgehog has dry, flaky skin and/or is losing a lot of quills: Most likely, your hedgie has mites or perhaps a fungal infection. A vet can easily diagnose and treat this, and it's usually quite inexpensive. Home remedies are not uniformly effective and can wind up being more expensive, so seeing a vet right away is a much better strategy.

9. My hedgie has ruffled ears: Try putting a little lotion on the ears at least once a day for several days. If it doesn't clear up, you may want to have a vet check to rule out fungal infection rather than just dryness.

10. My hedgie appears to have a broken limb: Take the hedgie to the vet right away. An unset limb may heal incorrectly, causing discomfort later.

11. My hedgie has a runny nose and/or discharge from the eyes: Your hedgie may have an upper respiratory infection. These are quite easily treated by a vet, but may prove fatal if untreated.

12. My hedgie has an ingrown quill that looks infected: If it's gotten infected, it may need to be lanced and cleaned by a vet, and antibiotics may or may not be indicated. Better to get a vet's opinion.

13. My hedgie has an unusual lump or bump: Hedgies are prone to cancer. We have also had some who developed cysts. The sooner a vet can diagnose and treat, the better off your hedgehog will be.

14. My hedgie has green poop: If it is sticky in consistency, get to the vet right away. This can often be a sign of serious internal problems. If it's loose, think about what the hedgie has eaten in the last 24 hours. If they've had some new food, it may just be mild gastrointestinal distress. But if it persists for more than a day or two, then you will definitely want to have a vet check a stool sample. Green stool is a general symptom of a very wide variety of things, some quite benign and some very serious.

veterinarian

Finding your Hedgehog Veterinarian List by Country please visit link below:

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Colorado Other Country please email to me or leave your comment

Bathing and Nail Trimming

Hedgehogs do a fairly good job of grooming themselves but sometimes, there are things they need help with. If you wish, you can bath your hedgehog a couple times a year. Here is what you will need.

Assemble the following items at your bathroom sink:

• cat shampoo

• a cup (unless you have a sink with sprayer hose)

• an old toothbrush

• a towel at the sink or bathtub

Run an inch (no more!) of lukewarm water into the bathroom sink. Next, place a drop or two of the cat shampoo into the water. Now, place your hedgehog gently into the water and wet him thoroughly by scooping water from the sink with the cup onto his back. Using the toothbrush, gently and slowly scrub his spines from front to back and in small circles, making sure not to get any of the soapy water in his eyes. Once his back is clean, reach underneath and wash his tummy by gently running your fingers over the fur, but do not flip him over. After he has been thoroughly scrubbed, remove him from the sink, drain the dirty water and once again refill the sink with an inch of lukewarm water. Then, place him back in, thoroughly rinse him off, remove him from the sink and then gently towel him dry. If the room is cool, you can use a hairdryer to dry him off, but do not use it above its lowest setting.

After he has dried off, check his toenails to see if they need trimming. If you are not familiar with how to trim toenails, I strongly recommend that you take your hedgehog to the vet to have him do this for you. Each toenail has a large blood vein running through it and, by cutting too much of the nail off, you can easily cause your pet to bleed. This bleeding can quickly be stopped by using a commercially available blood-stop powder or caustic stick (available from your vet) or by dipping the affected toenail in corn starch. If not treated, the bleeding will eventually stop, but not before the animal has lost a considerable amount of blood. To make matters worse, your hedgehog may protest against having his nails trimmed and will make the task difficult, if not impossible for you to perform on your own. Again, if you are unsure about doing this, have a professional do it for you!

For those already familiar with the task, a pair of ordinary fingernail clippers will do the job. If he protests, which he very well may, you will have to be very patient with him. First, try to firmly but gently grab hold of one foot and maintain that hold until he relaxes a bit. Then, quickly trim the toenails making sure to avoid cutting into the quick. After finishing, give him a bit of a break or a nice treat as a reward and proceed with the next foot. In most cases, you will be unable to do more than one or two of his feet at a setting before he says enough is enough, so it may take two or three days to do all four feet. The toenails need to be checked for over-growth every couple of months. There are some hedgehogs that never need them trimmed, however, so don't automatically assume that they need doing.

BEDDING MATERIAL

Cedar and Pine Shavings

Should you use pine or cedar bedding for your hedgehog? A great deal of debate surrounds the issue, but there are answers.

Basically, the health concerns with cedar stem from an aromatic toxin called Plicatic Acid. Studies conducted on humans link the occupational exposure to cedar and, hence, Plicatic Acid, to a 50% increased incidence of asthma. Effects of long-term exposure is unclear, although it is suggested that it may increase the risk of diseases such as glottal cancer. While pine does not contain plicatic acid, it does contain abietic acids, also associated with similar or identical symptoms after lengthy exposure.

So the question is, does the use of pine or cedar bedding pose a health risk to hedgehogs? To obtain a fair and non-biased answer, we need to look to the studies themselves. In every case, the studies looked at sawmill or pulp mill workers, mainly in British Columbia where the milling of cedar is a mainstay. In such environments, the workers are exposed to high levels of wood dust with protective breathing apparatus rarely being used. Therefore exposure levels are abnormally high and cannot necessarily be compared with the life of a hedgehog, living in a cage or aquarium, sleeping on or burrowing occasionally into wood shavings. In order for exposure levels to be equal, the hedgehogs environment would need to have a fair level of airborne wood dust present on a near-constant basis. It is likewise important to consider that the only definitive studies available, directly linking both toxins to type-I hypersensitivity reaction, have been those conducted on humans, particularly workers exposed to extreme levels of toxin-laden wood dust. So-called "evidence" with small mammals is still incomplete and sometimes anecdotal. That said, however, it is important to consider that - even after proper curing - plicatic acid levels are considerably higher in cedar than abietic acid levels found in pine.

Given this information, it is only logical for pet owners to err on the side of caution. Cedar should most definitely not be used as a bedding material for small mammals, including hedgehogs. The plicatic acid levels are far too high in both non-cured and cured cedar chips to be overlooked as potential health risk.

Pine on the other hand does contain high levels of abietic acid when not cured, but those levels drop significantly when the wood is properly cured. Therefore, while non-cured pine bedding should be viewed in the same light as cedar, properly cured pine is likely safe for hedgehogs if adequate ventilation of the cage is provided.

We've used cured pine bedding with our own herd from the time we first started into hedgehogs, over 6 years ago, 'til now. We haven't seen anything that would indicate that our hedgehogs are living any shorter lives than those that have been kept on alternative bedding and thus far we've only had one hedgie who displayed an allergic reaction to being kept on pine. She suffered a severe skin reaction and lost most of her quills within a week. Interestingly enough, she also reacted badly to aspen bedding. So, while I have no problem with using Pine, if you're at all concerned, I recommend you use something else. There are several alternatives including aspen and several paper products, but each has it's own disadvantages.

Aspen Shavings
Aspen is a relatively safe bedding material although it can be rather messy unless it is bought in the chip form. Oftentimes touted as being the 'perfect' bedding material, especially for hedgehogs with skin allergies, this is not always the case. Although rare, some hedgehogs will experience an allergic response to aspen shavings.

Corn Cob
Although not as comfortable as wood shavings, corn cob is a relatively safe bedding, but certain precautions need to be taken here as well. Problems have been reported with young male hedgehogs getting pieces of corn cob trapped in their penis sheaths, resulting in irritation, local infection and even urinary infection. If not detected soon enough this can even result in death.

Corn cob bedding also has a tendency to rot and mildew when wet, causing unpleasant odors and a not-so-pleasant environment for your hedgehog to live.

If the above two precautions are observed, however, corn cob will suffice as a hedgehog-safe bedding material.

Paper Bedding
Several paper bedding products are available such as soft products like CareFresh, or pelleted paper products. Both are reasonably safe although there have been cases where hedgehogs have choked to death on the softer products. From the perspective of comfort for your pet, there is debate as to whether pellets are too uncomfortable. In either case monitoring is recommended.

WINTER TRAVEL TIPS

It's now the middle of winter and so far you have had no problems with keeping your hedgehog warm. But, during playtime tonight, you noticed your hedgehog is not acting well. The symptoms don't really matter at the moment. The fact is, you now need to take your hedgehog to the veterinarian, and its well below freezing outside. How do you keep him warm?

There are many ways in which you may approach this task, and each method may have the same final result (a warm hedgehog). Below are some suggestions and ideas to help you travel safely.

Tip 1:

Provide plenty of layers of bedding in the travel carrier. I use a hard sided collapsible carrier to transport my hedgehogs. In this carrier I place several layers of Vellux blankets for them to crawl under, and a cloth bag to snuggle in. These two together will provide a soft, cushioned layer of bedding to help your ailing hedgehog to remain comfortable, and will provide your hedgehog protection from the cold air.

Tip 2:

Use an external heat source in the hedgehog's carrier. I like to keep a 'Snuggle Safe Heat Disc' in the carrier so that if the hedgehog can move closer to the disc for warmth if necessary. Having a heat source that will last for many hours is a necessary precaution, in case your car should break down or some other problem prevents your timely arrival at the veterinarian's. Please remember that whatever heat source you choose, to wrap it in a towel or a cage liner to prevent possible burns, and that there is space in the carrier for the hedgehog to get away from the heat. Here are some possible heat sources:

• Snuggle Safe Heat Disc - A microwavable, pink plastic disc now being carried by several chains (including Pet Supplies Plus and PetSmart) as well as many smaller stores and online retailers. This disc will provide heat for up to 12 hours.

• Disposable hand warmers - These are plastic pouches that, when an internal capsule is broken, will release chemicals that mix and produce heat. They are commonly found in the hunting/fishing section of sporting goods stores. Depending on the type you buy, they can stay warm for about 2-6 hours.

• Rice or buckwheat bags - For a quick, homemade hand warmer, take a large cotton sock, fill it with rice or buckwheat, and tie a knot in the end. You can also sew the end for a permanent bag. Warm the bag in the microwave for about 90 seconds, and you will have a homemade heat source. Rice bags may stay warm for 1-2 hours.

• Hot water bottles - There are quite a variety of hot water bottles, from the old classic versions one sees in old movies, to those that never need to be filled and are microwavable, and even an electric version, on the market today. The amount of time one stays warm will vary, with approximately 1-2 hours the average.

Tip 3:

Insulate the hedgehog carrier. I recommend wrapping the carrier with a blanket or towel when transporting the carrier between your car and the building. This will help prevent cold air from reaching your hedgehog, which could result in a chill. If you plan to rest the carrier on your car's floor, place a layer of blanket or towels under your hedgehog's carrier. Floors of cars are cold, and can make the floor of the carrier cold very quickly as well.

Tip 4:

Do NOT place your hedgehog's carrier directly in front of a heat vent. While this may sound like a good way of keeping your hedgehog warm, it can cause your hedgehog to overheat rapidly, leading to a much more severe problem than the original. This also applies to direct sunlight.

These tips should help you travel from your home to the veterinarian's office, and back again, while keeping your hedgehog warm. Having a plan of action should you have to travel during the middle of winter, before it becomes a necessity, is, in the opinion of this author, the only way to help ensure the health and well-being of your hedgehogs.

Am I Allergic to Hedgehogs?

While most people do not suffer an allergic reaction to hedgehogs, some still do and in almost all cases, it appears to be an allergy to the saliva.

There are, however, other things to watch for. If you have an allergy to a hedgehog's bedding material or to other animals, this can also cause problems since a hedgehog's quills will push the offending substances just below the surface skin on your hands and create a reaction that wouldn't otherwise occur.

As an example, if I pet a cat I have to be sure not to touch my nose or eyes, but otherwise I suffer no serious symptoms unless the room is full of cat dander. However, if I first touch a cat and THEN pick up a hedgehog, the hedgehog quills push the cat dander into my hand and my hands swell up, covered with ugly red welts.

To find out if you are allergic to hedgehogs, it is best to take a look at some hedgehogs, pick up a few nice and friendly ones and see if you have a reaction. A slight itchy feeling on your hands afterwards is ok and (dare I say it) almost normal. Just watch out for signs of swelling or red welts.

Hedgehog Skeleton

Hedgehogs have a fairly typical mammalian skeletal structure, but with much longer hind and fore-legs than most people imagine. The skull is broad and blunt with well-developed cheek bones. The jaw can exert a surprising amount of force do to the musculature attachment being located well-forward of the cheek bones.

The cranial cavity is small, but contains a brain that, while primitive in many aspects, is surprisingly more complex than first observations suggest.

Dentition consists of 36 teeth which are highly suited to both an insectivorous and omnivorous diet.

Simple Hedgehog Facts

Classification	CLASS: Mammalia
	ORDER: Insectivora
Number of Genus	4
Number of Species	14
Domesticated Species	African White-Bellied Hedgehog (Atelerix albiventris)
Average Life Span	3.5 years
Maximum Life Span	9 years
Common Life Span	4-6 years
Heat Cycle	Ovulation induced by male
Estrous:	2 - 5 days
Diestrous:	2 - 5 days
Gestation period	35 days
Litter Size:	average 4, up to 9
Eyes open	14-16 days
Weaning age	5-7 weeks
Time to remove from mother:	6-7 weeks
Complete Physical Maturity	10 - 11 months
Average Adult Weight	9 - 19 ounces
	255 - 540 grams
Recommended maximum number of litters per year per female hedgehog	2
First Sexual Capability
Male	7-9 weeks
Female	8-12 weeks
First breeding best	6-7 months
Female fertility ends	Approximately 3 years
First quilling	4 weeks
Second quilling	6 weeks
Third quilling:	9 weeks
Adult quilling	12 weeks
Adult color quilling	9 weeks
Best Room Temperatures	72 - 80 degrees Fahrenheit
	20 - 27 degrees Celsius
Hibernation	Hibernation can be lethal for pet hedgehogs
Sexes	Males and females should be housed separately
Quills	Quills are modified hairs, they are not very sharp and do not have barbs
	The average hedgehog has 5,000 -7,000 quills
	Quills are hard on the outside, filled with soft air pockets on the inside
	There are 2 large muscles on either side of a hedgehog's back to raise and lower its quills and curl into a ball. This is a hedgehog's only defense.
DIET
Diet in the Wild	Beetles Ants Termites Grasshoppers Moths Centipedes Earthworms
Diet in Captivity	Dry Cat food Mink and Ferret food Cooked poultry (never raw meat) Cooked egg (never raw)
Diet Supplements (treats)	Insects (mealworms, crickets, etc) assorted fruits and vegetables
Dairy Products	Hedgehogs are mildly lactose intolerant. Dairy products should be fed sparingly or not at all
Suggested Nutritional Requirements	Protein Suggested requirement - 22% Fat Suggested - 5% Fiber Suggested - 15% Calcium Suggested - 0.9% Phosphorus Suggested - 0.9% Iron Suggested - 75 ppm Copper (mg/kg) 4-23 7-16 3-7 Manganese (mg/kg) 11-146 11-70 5 Zinc (mg/kg) 20-175 100-190 30
Recommended Caloric Intake	70-100 calories per day
HOUSING
Min. Recommended floor area	4 sq feet
	0.37 sq Metres
Cage Floor	Solid - NO Wire
Exercise	Hedgehog Wheel (solid running surface, no wire) Toilet Paper Tube (for hedgehogs over 3 months of age only!) Small child-safe toys Ferret-size ball under supervision Daily Handling
COMMON AILMENTS
Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome (WHS)	A genetic disorder that causes progressive paralysis similar to the human form of MS. There is no cure and the afflicted hedgehogs slowly and eventually become totally paralyzed. The disease appears to be carried by a recessive gene making detection and eradication difficult. Breeders should avoid using hedgehogs with any WHS in their family lines.
Cancer	Hedgehogs can suffer from cancerous growths and lesions to the same extent as other comparable species. Common to female hedgehogs are ovarian, uterine and mammary tumors; and to males, jaw and testicular tumors.
Eyes	Eyes can be lost to quill pokes, most commonly when multiple hedgehogs are housed together. Infection is common if not treated immediately.
Teeth	Tooth loss and wear can occur in older hedgehogs. Weight loss can occur in extreme cases. There is some speculation that an all-hard food diet can cause premature tooth wear. Hedgehogs with poor dentition should be fed a soft food diet to compensate and prevent weight loss.
TERMINOLOGY
Males	Males
Females	Females
Young	Hoglets or pups
Breeding Group	Herd
Quills	Quills or Spines
Anointing or Self-Anointing	The act of frothing at the mouth, arching the head back over the shoulders and depositing the frothy saliva onto the quills. Triggered by pungent smells and new tastes. The exact purpose of anointing is unknown.

KNOWN YOUR HEDGEHOG

It has been said that no other exotic animal has caught the attention of the public quite like the pet hedgehog has. Their spines, friendly and curious nature, as well as that ever-smiling expression have endeared them to millions of confessed hedgehog lovers around the globe.

Those in Britain, Europe and parts of Africa have long known about the hedgehogs’ charm. British author and illustrator, Beatrix Potter, although most famous for her story of Peter Rabbit, also wrote the wonderful tale of a hedgehog named "Mrs. Tiggy-winkle", a matronly washerwoman. A British wildlife hospital dedicated to rescuing sick and injured hedgehogs is even named after this delightful character.

The interest in hedgehogs doesn't end there, though. Until recently, these remarkable little animals were virtually unknown in North America. But now, thanks to the pioneering efforts of breeders, the African Pygmy Hedgehog is now readily available and can be found in the homes of thousands of happy pet owners. "But why," you may ask, "is there such an interest in hedgehogs as pets?"

Besides having a peaceful and humorous nature, hedgehogs readily lend themselves to just about anyone's lifestyle and schedule. Being diurnal (awake parts of both day and night) just like house cats, nearly everyone can find a time of day in which to enjoy them. They do not require a great deal of room in which to live and their dietary requirements are very easy to meet and, since they are solitary animals by nature they neither require nor want the companionship of another animal.

Unlike hamsters, Guinea Pigs and other small rodents, pet hedgehogs do not give off any appreciable odor and they are easily litter trained. They live much longer than rodents, too. With the proper care and diet, your pet can live to be 4 - 7 years old. Add to all of this the fact that they require no immunization shots and are very disease resistant and you can see why so many people consider hedgehogs to be the perfect pet.

They have adorable little raccoon-like faces, set with beady little black eyes and small pointy noses that seem to twitch constantly, checking out the different odors of the room. Depending on the color variation that you choose, their little white faces may or may not have a mask. Although not related to the porcupine, they are sometimes mistaken for them because of the quills that cover their backs. The similarity ends there, however, since these quills are not barbed or nearly as sharp and remain attached to their bodies. Their little white tummies, on the other hand, are extremely soft and are covered with short, white hair. When frightened, they can roll up into a tight ball and look very much like a sea urchin. They have a short, stubby tail, but this is rarely seen since they keep it tucked up close their bodies. With their tiny little legs and round bodies, it is a real sight to see them scurry across the floor

Unlike their much larger English cousins, the African Pygmy Hedgehog (or pet hedgehog) is rather small in size, with the average adult weighing between ½ and 1 ¼ pounds and are 5 to 8 inches long - about the size of a Guinea Pig. There are a few rare adults that will grow to as much as 1 ¾ to 2 pounds (without being fat) while others are as little as 6 or 7 ounces. Breeders are now concentrating on these differences so that someday, we will have a choice between two different sizes of hedgehogs.

They have a quiet, gentle, disposition that makes them a true delight to own and hold. Each has a distinct personality and will bond to its owner for life. (We are assuming you purchased a socialized pet). They are surprisingly intelligent, fun to play with and are easily entertained. They love to play with tunnels, mazes and specially designed hedgehog wheels. Even something as simple as a toilet paper tube will make a good toy, as they love to stick their heads in them and run about the floor. Despite their solitary nature, they can become very affectionate with their owners and will even enjoying watching TV with you or just snuggling in your lap.

Because they are quiet, they are very easy to travel with. Most people aren’t even aware that a pet hedgehog is nearby. Many hotels that restrict other animals such as cats and dogs will allow hedgehogs. Once trained to a litter box, an adult can pretty well have the run of the house. With its excellent sense of smell, keen eyesight and good memory, it will know where the litter box is and will use it on a regular basis. Because they are not a rodent, they have no body odor, but it is still important to clean the litter box daily to eliminate all smells. Some people are not comfortable with a loose pet, so a cage with a minimum floor area of 16 x 24” will keep it happy and secure.

Hedgehogs truly are a low maintenance pet. Your pet hedgehog should be kept indoors at normal room temperature (65 to 80oF); it can be fed a good quality dry cat food or a specially formulated hedgehog food; they don't bark, although when happy, some will emit a quiet purr; they do not climb curtains or chew on furniture; and, they do not ask to be taken out for a walk. All that your pet asks for is to be fed and watered, loved and appreciated. Besides simply being enjoyed as pets, there is also an active hobby.

Thanks to the efforts of the hard-working folks at the International Hedgehog Association, (IHA) there is now a working show system and standard of perfection for the pet Hedgehog. Breeders and pet owners alike can now show their pets in friendly competition. As well, many breeders are involved in the fascinating and challenging world of color breeding. Many beautiful new colors have already been produced and many breeders are hard at work to produce even more. This adds a whole new dimension to owning hedgehogs and even those with only one or two animals are becoming actively involved.

ABOUT HEDGEHOG

Hedgehogs are a lot more than just another pretty face. Their contribution to history, folklore and even medical knowledge is extensive. Despite all of this, the lowly hedgehog has remained surrounded by an aura of mystery and superstition. Oftentimes misunderstood and maligned, it is only in this past century that hedgehogs have come into their own, becoming popular in literature, and now, since the early 1990's, being kept and even revered as domestic pets. Try the links below to learn more about these wonderful, quilly critters.

Baby and adult hedgehog

The new baby is still visiting, it seems (unless it's a different baby) and here in these photos you can get a better idea of its size when seen alongside an adult hedgehog.

Hogs on Tuesday night

As you can see in these pictures from Tuesday night, the garden is still busy with hedgehogs at times!

A new baby hedgehog

Look at who I saw out back tucking into the mealworms! It's another baby. It's hard to get an idea of scale in this photo, but this little hog is about the size of my hand.

I brought him inside quickly, just to make sure he was healthy. I hope he keeps coming back here to eat - he'll need to put on a lot of weight before hibernation time in just a couple of months.

Thursday night's hogs

More baby hedgehogs and a busier Friday night than I expected

I believe that the hedgehog seen here on the left in these two "through the cat flap" photos is one of the babies from a few months ago. It's definitely a juvenile and its especially dark face make me wonder if it's the one I called Baby #2. So the little one on the right must be from a more recent batch of babies. They're going to need to fatten up over the next couple of months before hibernation.
I had been thinking these last few days that hedgehog visits were on the decrease, partly because I had noticed that food was being left uneaten. So, last night (as well as the cat flap photos) I put the infrared motion-detector camera out. Looking back at the resultant captures this morning showed that it had been a busy night after all, with perhaps more juveniles visiting that I'd have expected. Here follows a selection of the best of the night's captures:

Hedgehogs in September

I've not posted for a little while so I thought another update was due. The nights are getting longer now and the hedgehogs are appearing earlier each night. The first one arrives at around 8pm most nights. You'll notice that the above photo shows a different angle from usual. What happened was that I went to put the camera out, but there was an early hedgehog (pictured) already at the mealworms, so I put the camera down in a temporary position so as not to disturb it, then later on moved it to the usual tried and tested position. As you'll see from the rest of last night's photos, there are still a bunch of hedgehogs visiting, including a couple of the now not quite so small "babies".